Friday, July 29, 2011

Is that hairstyle right for me?

Have you ever seen a hairstyle on someone and thought to yourself, I want that hairstyle?  Before running to the closest salon or phoning your stylist, ask yourself the following questions:
          1.  Will this hairstyle fit into my lifestyle?  For instance, If you go to the gym and work out 3 times a  week, you don't want something like spiral curls or a style that will easily fall if you sweat.
          2.  Will I be able to maintain this hairstyle once I leave the salon?
          3.  Is my head shaped similar to the person wearing the hairstyle?
          4.  Is my hairline similar to person wearing the hairstyle?
          5.  Is my hair texture similar to the person wearing the hairstyle?

If you answered yes to all of the above questions, chances are the hairstyle will be a good match for you.  Remember, something as simple as different hair textures or head shape can make a huge difference in how a hairstyle will look on you.

What products should I use on my natural hair?

Whether your hair is relaxed or natural, you want to use products that add moisture to your hair.  Just being outside in the sun all day can drain your hair of its natural moisture.  I like to use products like shea butter, jojoba oil, almond oil, coconut oil, etc.  These are all natural oils that can be purchased at places like health food stores and sometimes Walmart or Target.  You will have to experiment with the different combinations as all will not work well with every hair type.

When searching for the right shampoo for your hair, you want to stay away from harsh chemicals like:
Alkyl Benzene Sulfonate
Alkyl Sodium Sulfate
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
Ammonium Xylene Sulfonate
Magnesium Sulfate

Selenium Sulfide (mainly found in dandruff shampoos)
Sodium Thiosulfate
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Sodium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate
Sodium Dodecyl Sulfonate
Sulfur (mainly found in dandruff shampoos)
TEA-Dodecylbenzene
TEA Lauryl Sulfate

Thursday, July 28, 2011

What's the difference between a Professional Relaxer and a Store/box relaxer?

I have been asked this question countless times mainly because people want to know why professional relaxers cost more.  I will point out 3 major differences.
     1.  While both relaxers straighten the hair, Professional relaxers are made up of smaller molecules that allow the chemicals to penetrate the hair's cuticle layer better and faster for a more sleek finish.

     2.  Store relaxers leave a calcium build up on the hair, making it appear dull and sometimes limp.

      3. Professional relaxers can only be purchased by professionals (legitimate professional products lol) and are sold in bulk vs store relaxers which are sold per application (1 relaxer or 2 touch ups)

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Did you know that hair grows in 3 different phases?

    • The human body is covered with approximately five million hair follicles, each independently cycling through the three phases of the hair-growth cycle. Lips, soles of the feet and palms of the hands are among the limited places on the human body where hair is not found. Unlike many animals whose hair growth patterns are controlled by the change of season and the resulting variation in length of day, human hair growth occurs randomly. Although hair is dead material (mainly the protein keratin), it and the follicles that produce it are part of the body's epidural or skin structure.

    Anagen

    • Approximately 80 percent to 90 percent of a healthy individual's hair is in the anagen phase, a time when the hair is actively growing. In a New England Journal of Medicine article, "The Biology of Hair Follicles," Dr. Ralf Paus and Dr. George Cotsarelis point out that on average, an individual human scalp hair remains in the anagen phase for about 1000 days or almost three years. However, this phase can last as long as eight years. The amount of time a hair spends in the anagen phase controls how long the hair will grow. Although scalp hairs spend years in anagen before moving on to the next phase, an eybrow follicle only spends months in the anagen phase.

    Catagen

    • The catagen phase is a short period of transition between the anagen and telogen phases. This phase lasts only one to three weeks. The catagen phase involves a period of major cell death, and only a remnant of the hair follicle remains at the completion of this phase. However, near the end of the catagen stage, movement of the dermal papilla occurs, setting the stage for re-growth.

    Telogen

    • The solving of mysteries in many detective shows and stories, as well as real-life crimes, often hinge on the forensic analysis of hairs left behind by the perpetrator. These hairs are generally shed during the telogen phase. In fact, humans lose between 50 and 150 scalp hairs each day. During this phase, hairs are only anchored by friction between the club-shaped root and the follicle. According to the FBI Hair, Fiber, Crime and Evidence Report, these hairs shed easily and when examined have undamaged roots. It takes force to remove hair during the anagen phase; these hairs exhibit stretching and may have tissue attached to the root. The telogen phase lasts approximately two or three months, a resting phase before the growth phase returns.

6 Steps to Healty Hair Growth

Step 1.  Shampoo hair weekly to remove excessive oils and build ups.  Contrary to popular belief, dirty hair does not grow faster.  Dirt clogs your hair follicle.  Excessive blockage can cause hair loss.

Step 2.  Condition hair after each shampoo.  Remember, shampooing strips the hair of oil/moisture.  Conditioner replaces lost moisture.

Step 3.  Trim split ends every 8 to 12 weeks (as needed).  If you do not trim them, the split will continue up the hair shaft making it weak, eventually leading to breakage.

Step 4.  Deep Condition hair once (1) a month to help seal in moisture, eliminating dry, brittle hair.

Step 5.  Limit the amount of heat you apply to your hair.  Less is better.  Heat causes the hair to become dry and brittle.

Step 6.  Avoid overlapping chemical processes i.e. relaxers, permanent hair color.  If possible, have these services performed by a professional to avoid over processing.

By following these 6 steps, you are well on your way to a healthy head of hair!

My hair never grows. What's up with that?

During my 12 years in the beauty industry, this has been one of the most asked questions.  I could say the answer is an easy one, but oftentimes it's not.  There could be a number of reasons as to why your hair seems to never grow.  I will address threee main causes here.

 1.  Over processing is the biggest culprit.  When applying a relaxer touch up, the chemical should only be applied to the new growth.  So often, the relaxer is applied to hair that has already been chemically relaxed (overlapping), which weakens the hair causing it to eventually break.  I recommend that you not "touch up" your relaxer yourself as you can not see where your new growth ends and where your already relaxed hair begin.  This area is known as the line of demarcation.  The same or similar damage can be caused with permanent hair color as well.

2.  Heat damage.  You should try to avoid using excessive heat on your hair, be it natural or chemically treated.   Too much heat causes your hair to become dry and brittle which leads to breakage.

3.  Whether your hair is natural or chemically treated, you need to maintain a certain level of moisture within your hair shaft.  Always follow a shampoo with conditioner.  The shampoo strips your hair of oil/moisture, and the conditioner's job is to replace lost moisture.